Some useful tools for O-Frames

[WKC]

These are the most useful tools for maintaining the O-Frame.

Wheeler Engineering Bench Block

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...720&t=11082005

This bench block is handy for the strategically located holes for the O-Frame and slots for holding the slide.

Extractor Removal tool
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...REMOVAL%20TOOL

On one end, there is a fancy punch for pushing the firing pin in to remove the FP stop. It is stepped so the punch can only go in far enough to push the FP out of the FP stop. The other end is curved so you can push the extractor out without hitting the slide. You can get by with a punch but this makes life a little easier if you plan to pull the extractor and FP out for routine cleaning.

Mainspring Housing pin tool
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...G%20PIN%20TOOL

The mainspring housing retaining pin has a dimple on the driven side. This tool has a matching radius and the shaft diameter is the same as the pin.

Screwdriver set
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...WDRIVER%20SETS

This is a good set to have in your range bag. It comes with all the bits for the O-Frame. Brownells also makes them for other guns. This set comes with an attachment for driving out the mainspring housing pin.


Grip screw bushing bits
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=493&title=MAGNA-TIP~%201911%20AUTO%20BUSHING%20DRIVER?%20BITS
This is only needed if you plan to work on the grip screw bushings.

10-8 Armorer's Tool
http://10-8performance.com/Merchant2...ry_Co de=Tool

[BonoVox]

Thanks for sharing WKC! AMS and I ordered one of each last night!

[WKC]

For regular maintenance of O-Frames, especially carry guns, the extractor and the firing pin should be removed and the tunnels cleaned. For the Kimber Series II and Colt Series 80 with the firing pin safety, this is a little more involved but still doable. You need to depress the firing pin block out of the way so the firing pin and the extractor can come out. The firing pin should come out easily but the extractor may need a little finessing. Try rotating the extractor in the channel until it slips pass the depressed firing pin block.

A .177 cal airgun brush fits the extractor tunnel. A q-tip can be used to get power solvent in the tunnels and swab out residue. Can air is good for blasting out any remaining crud.

Make sure the extractor hook is cleaned of any debris. A bronze brush works well to clean off any caked on power residue.

Don't forget the firing pin block. You can't remove this without taking off the rear sight so it must be cleaned in place. Any of the aerosol cleaners will work. Follow up with can air to blow out the remaining cleaner.

After you installed the extractor and FP into the slide, do a check of the extractor tension to detect any gross changes. You do this by slipping a fired case under the extractor and feel for the amount of force the extractor is exerting on the case. The amount of tension the extractor exerts on the case can vary significantly between guns. So, know what you gun is like and watch for any sudden changes.

Another thing I forget to mention on the tool list is the needle oilers.
NEEDLE OILER BOTTLES at Brownells

I like these because of the precision and reach I have with the needle.


For the tupperware shooters, You can't neglect maintenance either. If you have a lot of rounds through your gun, consider replacing all the springs in the gun as a preventive measure. They are fairly cheap and from what I've been told, pretty easy to do. Also pull the extractor on a regular bases and give the hook and extractor cavity a good cleaning. Again, it's an easy thing to do and there is no need to prove Glock reliability with your life.

[BonoVox]

With the tools listed above you can do this to your Kimber CDP too!

[BonoVox]

[hygyliac]

Has anyone ever taken apart the recoil assembly? Once the pressure is retained and the entire piston group has been removed from the pistol, does the assembly require any maintenance at all?

[Mad Geek]

Originally Posted by BonoVox

With the tools listed above you can do this to your Kimber CDP too!

OMG!

I NEED to make one of these functions, or maybe one that has picked up enough knowledge to share....

Thanks for posting, guys. It builds confidence.

[Trinity]

Originally Posted by Mad Geek

OMG!

I NEED to make one of these functions, or maybe one that has picked up enough knowledge to share....

Thanks for posting, guys. It builds confidence.

I will warn you, there is a sick feeling in your (my) stomach at the sight of your Kimber in that many pieces - I was amazed that it all went back together & there weren't any left over pieces! I'm so happy to have a clean gun, I don't even want to shoot it now!

[WKC]

Originally Posted by hygyliac

Has anyone ever taken apart the recoil assembly? Once the pressure is retained and the entire piston group has been removed from the pistol, does the assembly require any maintenance at all?

You can remove the reverse plug and take the outer spring off. The inner spring appears to captive and there does not seem to be an easy way to get it apart and still be able to put it back together again. Both the outer spring and the inner spring can be cleaned. The outer spring can be replaced and should be an inexpensive piece. I expect the inner spring and guide rod assembly would be more expensive. I am not sure what the Kimber recommend maintenance practice is this inner spring.

[point45]

The only thing you really need or is necessary to buy is the screwdriver set. A properly fit driver makes life easier.

A ball point pen to help get that slide stop in with out scratching anything and a paperclip if you have a reverse plug or kimber.

I have one of the caspian pocketsmiths in my range bag, i use it to remove the grips and main spring if i need to and sometimes a stubborn barrel bushing but an empty magazine easily does the trick.

However at home ive got a wide variety of 1911 specific tools for smithing. Right tool for the right job makes life go smoothly and fewer coins go in the swear jar.

[NikNak]

Originally Posted by BonoVox

With the tools listed above you can do this to your Kimber CDP too!

Where's your rubber mallet, shop vac, oil pan, and air filter?

[AMS MIKE]

Originally Posted by NikNak

Where's your rubber mallet, shop vac, oil pan, and air filter?

those are in the garage


And I just got email confirmation....all the tools I ordered have been shipped! This is exciting...going to attempt to take apart another 1911 when they arrive.

Thanks again for the list WKC...makes life so much easier when using the proper tools

[PHM]

After how many rounds is it recommended to do a complete breakdown of a Kimber?

[libertarian]

Originally Posted by WKC

For the tupperware shooters, You can't neglect maintenance either. If you have a lot of rounds through your gun, consider replacing all the springs in the gun as a preventive measure. They are fairly cheap and from what I've been told, pretty easy to do. Also pull the extractor on a regular bases and give the hook and extractor cavity a good cleaning. Again, it's an easy thing to do and there is no need to prove Glock reliability with your life.

Very true! Though they don't mind getting dirty once in a while, it's always good to maintain your weapon like your life depends on it... because it does.

[Glock32]

Originally Posted by PHM

After how many rounds is it recommended to do a complete breakdown of a Kimber?

I do not know what the recommended round count is before a detailed strip cleaning. On a 1911 type pistol I do one about every 1,000 rounds. It has a lot to do with the type of ammo you use (clean burning powder, bullet being lead versus jacketed, etc).

I do it every time I buy a used gun.

The process is fairly straight forward if you are mechanically inclined. If you are not, buy a Glock. Or you could ask a friend to help you out the first couple of times.