Gun Oil.......

[sealbeach]

Bah humbug! I still use Hoppes #9 cleaner, and Hoppes gun oil. Rifles that need grease get plastilube, which was designed for the M1 Garand, but I use it on all my rifles, works great--sticks well, doesnt melt in heat or freeze up in cold, and doesnt go spraying off the rifles when you are firing it.

The only major exception to this whole process is when cleaning old C&R relics, I use naptha to cut through the caked on cosmoline, followed by a bath in CLP or Hoppes gun oil, since the naptha strips ALL the oil and grease from the steel, it needs oil real quick, or rust can attack parts soon.

Not saying those wonder lubes and fancy cleaners arent good stuff, but I clean a lot of guns, and it seems like there is a good deal of hype and marketing to go along with some real sky-high prices for that fancy stuff. I would be surprised if they really are SOOOOO much better than the older traditional materials.

The majority of my guns are about 60-70 years old, they look great, perform great, and have had traditional materials used on them (including their long slumber embalmed in cosmoline).

BTW, MidwayUSA has Hoppes #9 and Hoppes gun oil in bulk, you can save pretty big $$ buying it that way, compared to the dinky little bottles they sell in sporting goods stores.

[Dutchman]

I guess I'm a throwback in the sense that I just use hopes #9 to clean. I used to use hoppes gun oil but switched to SLiP2000™ - EWL for lubrication. After routine cleaning I run a wet patch through the barrel, then use a bore jag and dry patch to remove excess. One drop on the internal workings of my revolver on the very rare occasion I do a deep cleaning. This stuff doesn't seem to gum up, nor does it seem to collect dust.

[El Gato]

I have become a big fan of Kroil...

I use it on revolver cyl. and frames... soak the stuck on carbon stuff...gun pooo... and let it sit... then wipe it off... no rubbing to speak of and no brushes etc. to clean the flutes on a revolver cyl or the frame... stainless cyl. faces come clean with only a brief soaking...

I use it on bores that are heavily leaded... soak it repeatedly and let it sit... sometimes for a few hours and sometimes for days and then scrub with a brush... amazing how much easier it is to "get the lead out"

For heavily fouled barrels with alot of copper in it... same treatment...soak the kroil...

It is also handy stuff for rusted on stuff like bolts and screws....

The guy who told me to buy it said... Kroil creeps.... beneath almost anything... like copper, lead powder fouling... etc...

Don't know if it really works that way but it seems to ...

[Mtn. Medic]

Gun oil?

Why I've used good ol' low tech 3-in-One household oil my entire life.

Can't fault it anywhere.

[Dutchman]

quote by ElGato"I use it on bores that are heavily leaded... soak it repeatedly and let it sit... sometimes for a few hours and sometimes for days and then scrub with a brush... amazing how much easier it is to "get the lead out"

For heavy leading I use either a copper "chore boy" wrapped around an old bristle brush or the lewis lead remover.

Here is a SEVERELY leaded barrel due to undersized bullet (thanks to not belling the cases enough while loading) . One pass with the lead removal tool with a little Hoppes, and the lead was gone.


Here's the junk that came out with the tool.

[El Gato]

"For heavy leading I use either a copper "chore boy" wrapped around an old bristle brush or the lewis lead remover."


Buying a lewis lead remover makes sense.... we can't have that around here now can we?
No... it simply won't do...
What we need here is a complete absence of common sense...
Clear thinkers all, we have our minds completely made up about such things as the common man's sense ....
Why I remember when I was a boy... you wouldn't find us buying a fancy tool to clean the lead out of our father's gun...NO!... we did it with dental floss and some tooth paste rapped around a stick and a pair of our old socks.. that's the way we did... and if if was good enough for us then...why.... well it's good enough now....

Where am I ... Is this the fantasy sock fetish forum...?
Dang... Lost again...

Oh... Lewis lead remover... good tool...

[Quietpi]

I found a tube of Lubriplate SFL-1 at a local bearing store. A lifetime supply for eight bucks. Put it on the slide rails. So far I'm very impressed. No migration at all. It coated the surfaces beautifully. It stays where you put it, so you need to make sure you get it where you want it. In the tiny areas where any of it is exposed, it has not caught any lint. I could feel the difference when I first racked it. I haven't had it to the range yet, but I can't see any reason that any objectionable amount would be thrown. That report will follow in a week or two.

Per Cunningham's recommendation, I did try to find SFL-0, and I did find it -- in a 5-gallon bucket, for I think $170. The -1 is a bit stiff when applying. The -0 would obviously be more pleasant, or at least more "normal" (whatever that is) to apply. But no complaints. I think it's wonderful stuff.

[Justaguy]

For what its worth:

Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). That's right, plain ol' ATF. The kind you get at every gas station, auto parts store, and even most convenience stores. Synthetic or regular, either will work just fine.

-From Grant Cunningham - custom revolvers for sport and defense

I think his comment about most oil failures result from "too much, not too little" is true.

[CCWInstructor]

Mil-Tek is great also.

[Justaguy]

Originally Posted by CCWInstructor

Mil-Tek is great also.

But is it available at the supermarket?

[NikNak]

Originally Posted by Justaguy

But is it available at the supermarket?

Only where he shops

[RomanDad]

Hobbes for everything....

[cksh8me]

Hoppes to clean my pistols and revolvers. Break free to lube my revolvers, Mobil 1 grease on my semi auto pistols.

You have to be careful using some greases on pistols. If it's cold out and you are using a grease that is a bit too thick then your 9mm can go bolt action on you until it heats up. I've never had that problem with 40 or 45.

Rifles big bore cleaner for the barrel, Gun butter on the internals.

Shotgun I use Hoppes on a rag then a Tornado brush on the end of a cordless drill. FP 10 oil or any light oil on my shotguns.

If my shotgun barrels get real dirty and the wife is not home I have a tray I fill with water heat it up on the stove and lay the barrel in it. Wad crud and lead brush right out.

I got caught once it wasn't pretty.

[Quietpi]

Re: the SFL-1 -- The temperature thing intrigued me. It's supposed to have an extremely wide temperature range. So I put some in the freezer. It's not extremely cold as freezers go -- +20° F. But a finger test showed no change in properties. I'll have to find somebody with a colder freezer.

It looks like the only way we'll ever get definitive answers here is by experimenting. So I propose that Kimber issue ten of us Ultra Compacts for a period of five years, with 10K rounds each, and each of us use different lubricants. Then after five years Kimber can measure the wear on each of the pistols -- if they can get them from us.

I volunteer to test the SFL-1. Anybody else interested?

[Mad Geek]

I volunteer to test the SFL-1. Anybody else interested?

I'll take on the Militec-1. Can I choose the Kimber I want sent to me?